Fabrics without labels: Indian brands that are reclaiming gender-fluid fashion
- Nandini Rohela
- May 25
- 4 min read
Because fashion should be a choice, not a manual!
When I was scrolling mindlessly on the bottomless pit that Instagram is, I found an online thrift page that sold pre-curated fits, and I wondered just how convenient and easy it was to just view these clothing items as outfits. To not be stopped by the demarcations of “these are for boys and these for girls” that we usually face in stores.
That moment got me thinking about how there was once a time where Ranveer Singh, who was clad in a pleated skirt for his Bajirao Mastani promotions, made the headlines for a week straight. Or how Harry Styles in feminine garments for his 2020 Vogue issue made Twiterratis bristle at his sartorial choice. It made me realise just how immensely we had progressed from online clashes over gender fluid clothes to now accepting it as a staple in our wardrobes.
This revelation made me look at how Gen Z is now choosing to walk away from ‘his’ or ‘her’ labels in clothing stores and reforming what fashion means to them: a form of self-expression and identity, a way of embracing freedom in their wardrobes perhaps.
Gen Z and Identity politics
Ask any 20-year-old and you might hear that fashion for them isn’t just about looking good, it’s more about existing in a shared space, where they can pick anything off a clothing rack without wondering if it's for male or female. For them wardrobes are a holy ground that helps them define themselves, something that breaks binaries and allows them to be political and inclusive. To them– it’s expression first and function second. And this philosophy has found a stage online.
If you’re wondering that this is just a vibe shift, it isn’t. It’s also backed by data. A survey conducted by Them found that half of Generation Z agrees that traditional gender roles and binary gender labels are outdated, a belief we’re seeing online in their shopping carts and Instagram reels.
With the rise of online thrift pages and DIY stores, social media gives youngsters a platform that encourages them and allows them to be absolutely outrageous! The algorithm acts as a driver of identity that validates every ootd reel and post. Unlike the glossy magazines and the ‘unreachable’ stars like Ranveer Singh and Harry Styles, we see everyday creators experimenting and just simply having fun without thinking too much of it. We get to see how heterosexual men and women also wear the same clothes in the same patterns and get a sense of comfort in knowing that gender-neutral fashion isn’t always for couture but also for our own closets. It’s a quiet revolution of sorts that seeps into our everyday lives. And you guessed it, with most revolutions the markets have caught on to this philosophy well and quick.
It’s no surprise then that there’s a new wave of Indian labels that are stepping up to meet this demand of fashion that breaks binaries. Thousands of Indian brands have been capturing the ethos of gender-defying fashion. From minimalism to maximalist colors, here are a few Indian brands that just know how to get it right.
Founded in 2016 by Resham Karmchandani and Sanya Suri, The Pot Plant has made a name for itself as a brand that subscribes to androgynous clothing and blends it along with contemporarily traditional designs like Bandhani and Shibori. The Pot Plant’s easy separates and natural fabrics have carved a space in the fashion industry where people can wear clothes without worrying about gender dynamics.
Founded by Mriga Kapadiya and Amrit Kumar NBNW is a brand that celebrates the amalgamation of modernism with tradition. With their culture-forward and unconventional patterns, NBNW has cemented its way in gender-fluid fashion.
The brainchild of Isha Alhuwalia, is a unisex clothing and accessories slow fashion brand that represents itself as an ode to fashion and storytelling. The garments embody urbanity with hints of culture and minimalism.
HUEMN, co-founded by Pranav Misra and Shyma Shetty, has paved its way on a path less traveled. With oversized garments and co-ord fits that do not constrict to any gender boundaries, HUEMN has established itself as a leading brand in the androgynous fashion space that lies within India.
A concept-driven brand that blends minimalism, functionality and construction all in the right proportions. Co-founded by siblings Shruti and Harsha Biswajit, Biskit believes in experimenting with fabrics and crafting to birth garments that represent art and avant-garde visuals.
Co-founded by Ayushman Mitra, the brand uses eclectic colours to bring the story of Bengal to the world. With unconventional and eccentric patterns, Bobo Calcutta brings in blazers, kaftans, shorts and much more to the table.
In conclusion
These brands have become synonymous with silhouettes that do not need to be labeled and their gender-agnostic aesthetics. From Delhi to Kolkata, such brands keep redefining and reinventing themselves trying to prove the point that fabrics do not need his or her tags to be worn, they just need to feel like you.